Friday, August 24, 2018

August 22

We got a good night's rest before tackling the heat again on Wednesday. Took our time drinking coffee and met a friend of Maria's before we took off to Al-Wakrah, just south of Doha. It originally was a small fishing and pearling village but has evolved into a big town with a population of more than 80,000. It is considered the second-largest city of Qatar. It was one of the proposed venues for the 2022 World Cup, an honor Doha was awarded instead.

Speaking of the 2022 World Cup, we could see on the horizon several soccer stadiums being built on our way to Al-Wakrah as well as a commuter train. The Mail online reports that Qatar's development plans include building up the tourism infrastructure (including the Silver Pearl, a £1billion hotel construction), building and renovating 12 state-of-the-art stadiums, a £1billion off-shore hotel resort, and also in development is Lusail, a £28.8billion metropolis to be built from scratch nine miles from Doha's city centre. It's noticeable, as there are cranes and everywhere. Doha, apparently, wants to be the tourist destination of the future.

We didn't venture anywhere except to the Al Wakrah Souq, a district that includes a beach for families only and several shops and restaurants along the shore of the Persian Gulf. There were plenty of security people around but there were few others around, as Maria said most of the activity occurs at night. I read several Trip Advisor comments about people being escorted from the beach while being told not to photograph on the beach but from only the pavement. That didn't happen to us. We did, in fact, walk down to the shore and put our feet in the Persian Golf after breakfast.

We visited a small fish market before going to breakfast, and at least two groups of men wanted their photographs taken, so I obliged.

We ate at Easair Café along the shoreline, and it was an authentic Qatar breakfast that included Sheksoka, Foul red beans, labna, House Capatti (potato), assorted bread and Karak.
Sheksoka also is spelled Shakshouka. It is made of tomatoes, peppers, spices and eggs. It had a very tomatoy taste. The Foul red beans, or Ful medames, were awesome. The dish is cooked fava beans served with vegetable oil, cumin and with parsley, garlic, onion, lemon juice, chili pepper as optional. The labna reminded me of tzatziki as it was yogurt, cucumber and fresh herbs. We ate it with our paratha. The House Capatti came out after we had consumed everything else but it was worth the wait. It actually was a chapti stuffed with some potatoes with turmeric. We drank Karak, which was different but good. It's a type of tea that is different from other known conventional teas. The word Karak means multiplier or heavy tea. It comes from the Indian language, "Urdu." It is a combination of black tea, condensed or evaporated milk, sugar, cinnamon and cardamom.

After brekkie, we headed for the Museum of Islamic Art. Located on the southern end of Doha Bay, the museum is noted for its vast collection of Islamic art spanning 1,300 years. It opened in 2008 and was designed by the Pritzker Prize-winning Chinese American architect I.M. Pei with an interior designed by jean-Michel Wilmotte. While it maintains a style typical of Pei's work, the building incorporates elements that can be seen in ancient Middle Eastern structures - especially in the breezeway and the open area that overlooks the bay.

As for its collection, we saw some beautiful (and prized) examples of Arabic calligraphy - my favorite - some early Islamic books, ceramics, glass, jewelry, metalwork, miniatures (there was a miniature Qur'an) and textiles. It was well worth the visit.

Then we headed home and straight to the pool, which was SO refreshing after being in and out of the heat all day. It actually cooled my body enough that it didn't feel like 100 degrees afterward. Ha!
We took a nap,

Maria was kind enough to have supper then we took off again to the Katara district north of the city, where the Cultural Village Foundation sponsored a Celebration of Eid Al Adha. It was very, very hot but that didn't keep throngs of folks from the plaza area where a band was playing and fireworks were scheduled for later in the evening. Katara is an artists' colony or cultural village, and it featured several galleries of local artists. The feature (or gem, as the Katara website describes it) of Katara is the Coliseum or amphitheater. According to the website, it is a crafted balance between the classical Greek theatre concept and the everlasting Islamic features. And it is huge with 3,275 sqm. It seats 5,000. Completed in 2008, it apparently is set to host some of the most spectacular world-class events in Doha. A beautiful fountain affronts the back end of the amphitheater through which you look to the plaza and bay in the distance.

We sat in the amphitheater for a while before viewing some of the local artwork then we headed back to Maria's compound but we drove by the State Grand Mosque, which was lit up so we decided to stop to take pictures. We couldn't go into the mosque, as it was closed, and we were told that we couldn't visit and go inside until September, as it was "booked," so we won't get an opportunity to go inside. The building is absolutely beautiful, and it, too, is huge (as I'm learning is a Qatar characteristic since it's an oil-rich nation).

Established in 2011, the mosque was renamed Imam Muhammad Ibn Abdul Wahab Mosque, named after the reformist, pioneer and Muslim theologian of the 18th century. It is the largest in Qatar. It is built over 19,550 sqm on three levels with an area of 175,000 sqm, fitting more than 30,000 worshippers for prayers.

It is the most prominent mosque in the country, not only because of its size but also because it brings some of the leading Islamic scholars to Qatar to give lectures and perform prayers, especially Friday prayers and Tarawih (non-obligatory extra evening prayers) during Ramadan. Every Thursday, a public lecture occurs after the evening prayers.

As many as 28 large domes cover the central hall while 65 domes cover the outer quadrangle - totaling 93 domes. The mihrab contains two domes; the mihrab is a semicircular niche in the wall of a mosque that indicates the Qibla, which is the direction of the Ka'aba in mecca and the direction that Muslims should face when praying.

The mosque features a mix of both traditional Arabic and modern architecture, preserving some of the traditional Islamic architectural elements. It quite impressive, especially in the dark when everything is lit.

We then went back to the compound to join Maria's colleagues that live on the same floor for a party. The party was very pleasant, all were expats: a Brit from Essex, a couple who moved from Madison, a woman from Sheboygan who knew one of Beth's students in the theatre program and a woman from New Zealand who teaches theatre at the American School in Doha. It was a lively and energetic group, and we had some great discussions.

After a shower, we got to bed just before the haunting hour, way past our bedtime. :)

An old doh boat used for "decoration," I suppose, on the beach in Al Wakrah Souq where we had a traditional Qatari breakfast.

These men were eating lunch in the Fish Market and wanted their photographs taken.

These men were working in a Fish Market shop, and they also wanted their photograph taken.

Me, Beth and Maria in Easair Cafe in Al Wakrah Souq where we ate a traditional Qatari breakfast.

The Museum of Islamic Art.

A folio of the Qur'an in Kofic script that is ink and gelatin print on parchment, 9th century near East or North Africa. One of the many artifacts displayed in the Museum of Islamic Art.

A Qatari checking his cell phone on one of the plaza areas of the Museum of Islamic Art.

What you see in the Museum of Islamic Art as you enter.

A doh boat in Doha Bay. Portraits of the Amir are all over Doha, apparently erected to signal support for the Amir after the Saudis imposed a blockade. I saw a building that housed the Qatar National Printing Press, which I suspect prints these banners and other propaganda, considering its an absolute monarchy.

The Doha skyline from the beautiful arches of the breeze-way in the Museum of Islamic Art.

This is, I think, the main entrance to the amphitheater in the Katara district. You can see the homage to Greek architecture but with an Islamic flair in the main doorway.

I believe these are the steps to the entrance of the Qatar Swimming Association in Katara that houses facilities for swimming, diving and water polo.

It is SO hot and humid here that this is what happens when you've briefly visited an air-conditioned gallery and emerge into the heat. It was so hot that all I needed to do was stand, and the sweat rolled down my rather portly body. :)

A minaret in Katara with the moon shining.

The State Grand Mosque.

The main entrance to the State Grand Mosque.

The fountain in from to front of the amphitheater in Katara.


1 comment:

  1. WoW! Fun to read about the great food and see the architecture. Interesting to see men asking to have their picture taken.

    ReplyDelete