I wore my new red coat I bought in Hermanus because it was a tad chilly and even more so on the water.
There was another couple with us who didn't talk a lot but the boat captain was the same one who took us on our first sunset cruise.
They had coffee and muffins for us in the boat, which were very welcome that early in the morning. The river is beautiful - not at all green and lush like the Mississippi but a different beauty. The water was smooth, and the birds were coming to life. Then we saw the beautiful orange orb rising above the trees.
We were hoping to see hippos, who spend their nights in the bush and return to the water in the morning where they remain until dark. Didn't see any hippos moving from land to water.
Didn't really see much of anything in terms of wildlife but we did see a group of hippos as we were returning home and they had their heads out of the water. So we saw their heads.
We got back to the lodge in enough time to grab a piece of toast then we were off to visit the village where some of the Waterberry staff live. The lodge has given and continues to give back to the community.
Waterberry founded Tukongote Community Projects to improve the educational opportunities in nearby villages. It began with one preschool class, and now it supports more than 400 children in three preschools and one primary school.
Before we arrived at the preschool and primary school, our guide - who lives in the village - walked us through the village. The village is different than the Zulu village in which we stayed. The environment is totally different - Zululand is hilly and green; here it is flat, dusty brown and very little green. The structures were similar - the corrals for the cattle, the mud huts, the thatched roofs (some of which were replaced with the steel roof), outdoor cooking areas.
Villagers were going about their morning chores, gathering firewood for their fire to eat breakfast, washing dishes.
Then we visited the preschool and primary school. The children sang us a welcome song then focused on us. They wanted to look through the binoculars and, of course, my camera. We met one child who was probably about 4 years old that needed a little discipline. He left his classroom and spent time with us. He was a little onery but no one pulled him back into the classroom nor did they gently tell him not to pull my glasses off my face, for instance. Ha!
The preschool has three colorful classrooms, an outside classroom, a kitchen and a feeding shelter. Seventy-five little ones receive free schooling, in what is probably the brightest school in Zambia. The first primary school grade opened this year along with the Tukongote Adult Skills Centre, initially helping adults with reading, writing and math. Waterberry employs 25 local teachers and support staff, 14 of whom the lodge is assisting to gain recognized teaching qualifications.
We met some of the teachers, many of whom were young. I would say they were between 22 and 28.
I guess the best thing about Waterberry's work is that it takes place as a collaboration between Waterberry Community Liaison Staff, the lodge, teachers, parents and community members to ensure all projects are beneficial, supported, understood and with the best interests of the village at heart.
The Tukongote School is the focus of Waterberry's community support. It began its involvement in educational projects in 2009 with the sponsorship of a preschool teacher in the lodge's closest village. Her role was to teach the young children, ages three to six who could not walk the 10 kilometers to the then nearest school. Classes were held in the old mud and pole church building. The school project was initiated by the community, and Waterberry's involvement was to support their efforts. Waterberry agreed to start supporting the teacher and helping with resources. Tukongote Community Preschool was born.
The village chose the name "Tukongote" which describes the open billed storks as they fly off together in formation. It translates as "working together." Waterberry has now adopted this name as the umbrella for all its community projects.
Anywho, as we were walking through the village, our guide indicated that the central (and only) water pump was not working, and villagers had to go to the river to get water. The reason? The pump needed a cylinder - which costs about US $150 so the liaison is coming to speak to us tomorrow, and we'll most likely buy the needed cylinder so the villagers can get water. And we'll ask about the other greatest needs then determine what we can afford.
We returned to the lodge around 10 a.m. and ate some breakfast since all we had was toast earlier. We had nothing on our agenda until our fishing excursion at 4 p.m. so I worked on the blog for a while before we took a nap.
Had lunch, worked some more on photos and the blog then we went fishing. Met Webbie, our guide, at 4 p.m., and he took us upstream. We both got really nice fishing poles with open-face reels. We fished with minnows.
We were fishing for Tiger Fish, which apparently are prolific in this area. They're called aquatic acrobatics, and they're fierce fighters.
Beth hooked into one at one of the first spots we fished. It was a small one but she said it was fun. Just as it got to the boat, it jumped from the water and took the hook - they have pretty scary teeth.
I don't know why but there was a large net in the boat but Webbie didn't use it. The fish was nearly to the boat, and if he had used the net, he would have had a happy camper and a fish of which to take a photograph.
I hooked into a larger one later in the evening and, again, it got nearly to the boat to pull in, jumped up and spit out the hook. Damn.
I got a hit later but couldn't set the hook fast enough.
The river upstream was beautiful - it was very rocky and the rocks were basalt. It was a reminder of its volcanic beginnings. There were some pretty good rapids too.
We continued fishing as the sun set, and just as we were turning to start our return to the lodge we spotted a HUGE herd of elephants. I bet there were at least 25 of them coming down to the river to drink. It looked like two very large males, some females and about five babies. We couldn't get really close to them but I think I got a pretty good photo.
Even if we didn't land any fish, all-in-all, it was fun. I mean we were fishing on the Zambezi River with elephants drinking from the river!
Back to the lodge to putz until supper.
Just a couple of notes: a lot of the men in the village are employed at a nearby fish farm and tobacco farm. The lodge where we're staying - well - it's been delightful. Our supper each evening is on the veranda overlooking the river with candlelight and white linens - and really good food. Also, we can sit on our own patio and listen to the hippos. They grunt and groan, and they sound like they're not far away but we haven't seen any on the property.
We start out tomorrow at 6:45 a.m. with a bird walk then the liaison from the school is coming to talk with us before we leave for the next adventure.
I should warn you that we're traveling tomorrow after our bird walk, going to Jo-burg where we're staying in a hotel at the airport so we don't have to go through immigration. We leave Saturday for Tanzania - our first small aircraft flight - and wi-fi is spotty so I most likely won't be posting as frequently.
The sun rising on Zambezi River.
A crocodile.
A pied kingfisher preparing to dive for food.
Hippos in the Zambezi River
The Zambezi River at dawn.
Our guide to the village and schools.
Cooking breakfast in the village.
Hanging out in the village.
Going about their business in the village.
Koffee Klatch with the head man of the village (in the red hat to the far right - our guide's uncle).
Some homes in the village.
The preschool sponsored by Waterberry.
Some children in the primary school.
More kids in the primary school.
Another child in the primary school.
Another child in the primary school.
Thumbs up at the preschool.
And this child - the one who was at-large.
Fishing on the Zambezi River for Tiger Fish.
This is the HUGE herd of elephants we saw on our way back to the lodge from fishing.
The sun setting on the basalt rocks in the Zambezi River.
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